V okviru letošnjega praznovanja godovnega zavetnika Zavoda sv. Stanislava pripravljamo fotografsko razstavo “Duh svetlobe” vrhunskega alpinista Marka Prezlja. Razstavo bo odprl dr. Roman Globokar v četrtek, 10. novembra 2016, ob 18. uri v Kregarjevem atriju.
Razstavo je pripravil GMJ – Slovenski planinski muzej.
Marko Prezelj je širši javnosti zagotovo najbolj poznan kot vrhunski alpinist in edini štirikratni dobitnik zlatega cepina. A tega ne poudarja, saj pravi, da ni pristaš spodbujanja alpinistične tekmovalnosti v samovšečnosti.
Alpinist, alpinistični inštruktor, fotograf, gorski vodnik in reševalec. Rojen leta 1965, po izobrazbi univ. dipl. inž. kemijskega inženirstva. Pleza od leta 1982. Opravil je več kot 2500 vzponov doma in širom sveta, od tega mnogo prvenstvenih. Dosegal je težavnost do vključno F7b+ na pogled, z rdečo piko pa do vključno F8a. Je alpinist v klasičnem smislu in o tem pravi: »Kot alpinist neprizanesljivo zagovarjam negotovost in nepredvidljivost, temelj vsake doživete pustolovščine. V alpinizmu me navdušuje nepričakovano. Jasno je, da le preprost slog pušča odprta vrata za tovrstno navdušenje nad prvinsko radovednostjo.« Pleza tudi v ledu in kombinirano. Je štirikratni dobitnik najprestižnejšega alpinističnega priznanja − zlatega cepina (1991 z Andrejem Štremfljem, 2006 z Borisom Lorenčičem ter 2015 z Alešem Česnom in Luko Lindičem, 2016 s Haydnom Kenedyjem, Urbanom Novakom in Manujem Pellissierjem). Poleg tega je dobitnik nagrade Eiger (2010), Bloudkove nagrade (1992), zlatega znaka usposobljenosti Slovenske vojske (2001), zlatega častnega znaka Planinske zveze Slovenije (2007) in od leta 2012 častni član britanskega Alpine Cluba; letos je prejel tudi državno odlikovanje zlatega reda za zasluge RS s strani predsednika republike g. Boruta Pahorja.
Je kategoriziran vrhunski športnik, ki od leta 1991 ves čas dosega mednarodni razred in je profesionalni gorski vodnik z licenco UIAGM/IFMGA; med letoma 2005 in 2009 je bil tudi predsednik Združenja gorskih vodnikov Slovenije. Je odličen fotograf in publicist, ki objavlja v domačih in tujih alpinističnih revijah, zelo obsežno pa je tudi njegovo predavateljsko delo. Od leta 2012 je mentor Slovenske mladinske alpinistične reprezentance pri Planinski zvezi Slovenije. Mentorsko navduševanje mladih je v času “všečkov” še prav poseben izziv.
Na tokratni razstavi pa lahko spoznamo tudi njegovo fotografsko delo, ki po odličnosti lovi korak z njegovimi alpinističnimi dosežki. Tako kot gorništvo, alpinizem in gorsko vodništvo je tudi fotografija njegova strast in izziv, v kateri se ves čas izpopolnjuje in mojstri. Resno se je začel ukvarjati s fotografiranjem sočasno z alpinizmom zato pravi, da je njegov odnos do fotografije evolucijsko prepleten z gorami. Prva leta se je učil in navduševal nad stvaritvami drugih, ko pa je naštudiral in izživel tehnično perfektnost, se je usmeril v vsebino in danes velja za vrhunskega alpinističnega fotografa. Najbolj pomembno se mu zdi, da to počne zaradi sebe, s strastjo, kar se vse pogosteje vidi v ujetih trenutkih doživetij, ki so pravzaprav neulovljivi. To je svojevrsten izziv, saj le tako kot fotograf ni invaziven in ne posega v dogajanje. Včasih šele doma vidi, da mu je uspela fotografija, za katero se sploh ne spomni, da bi jo posnel. Prepričan je, da je res dobra fotografija tista, v katero je ujel duha dogajanja, občutenja, vzdušja, mraza, vetra, napora … tedaj in na tistem mestu. Tako kot nekateri doživetje poustvarjajo z besedami, ga on poskuša s fotografijo. Zanj je fotografija najprej shranjevanje občutkov, dnevniški zapis. Preko njih lahko svoja alpinistična in gorska doživetja podoživlja sam in jih prenaša drugim, ki jih spet vidijo drugače in v tem se kaže njihova večplastnost.
Fotografija je lahko lepa, a če ne izziva nobenih občutij, ne provocira, ne pritegne, zanj ni tista prava: »Fotografskih žanrov je nešteto vrst, ali te pritegne ali ne. Če te posnetek pusti mlačnega, je vseeno, če ga ni.« Najtežja stvar, ki daje najboljše fotografije, je biti hkrati sam del dogajanja in hkrati ne. Pogosto so dobre tiste fotografije, ko nihče od udeleženih sploh ne ve, da je fotografiran. Ne mara preveč zrežiranih posnetkov in pretvarjanja, je zagovornik »romantike«. Vse njegovo delo, razmišljanja in dosežke pa lepo opiše en sam njegov stavek: »Rad imam življenje.«
(Pripravila Elizabeta Gradnik, povzeto po:
– http://www.markoprezelj.com
– Predlog Planinske zveze Slovenije za podelitev državnega odlikovanja Marku Prezlju,
januar 2013, pripravil Borut Peršolja
– http://radioprvi.rtvslo.si/2015/11/marko-prezelj-alpinist-gorski-vodnik-fotograf/
– Jure Tomelj: Alpinistična fotografija, diplomsko delo, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta,
oddelek za tekstilstvo, grafiko in oblikovanje, 2015)
© 2018 Zavod sv. Stanislava. Vse pravice pridržane.
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